大西洋马提尼克岛唯美4日游(组图)

夏日海滩

海天一色

海浪与礁石

宁静夏夜

宜人风光

　　从美国转机就能达到这个迷人的小岛，爬火山或是潜水游泳任你选，当然身边要是有一瓶50年醇香的朗姆酒就更好了。岛上的法式烹饪，本地独特的食材和克里奥尔调料搭配起来相得益彰，岛上的建筑将新奥尔良风格和地中海风格完美融合，而这还不算是这个岛最美之处，他所带给你最大的惊喜，是这儿根本没用其他旅游圣地常见的游客度假村，一切都有待你去冒险，探索属于这里的激情，在这个岛上，你很容易美梦成真，找回自我。

　　旅行第一日(周五)11点15分乘飞机降落在马提尼克岛的艾梅-沙塞尔国际机场，这儿能提供奥迪TT敞篷跑车作为出租车在岛上观光，坐在车上尽享马提尼克海岸线和山上的风光。驶出机场向南约35分钟的车程就到了巴库亚酒店，尝尝用柠檬，糖和朗姆酒勾兑出的热带饮品，如果你不想睡的太早的话，出了酒店向西走几分钟就到了岛上有名的蓝弗雷俱乐部，不过千万别穿着短裤和拖鞋来这里刷夜，法国人的会所有明确的着装要求，即使是在一个小岛上。

　　旅行第二日(周六)上午9点30分，出发前往安塞-米歇尔海滩的椰树林同皮划艇向导罗杰-德拉法尔科，绕着安格莱斯海湾白玉般的沙滩和浅浅的礁石戏水，享受如此曼妙的清晨。由此向东的三个小岛是国家级的鸟类保护区，岛上鸟类种类繁多，其中包括军舰鸟和海鹦这样的稀有种类，数量是安地利斯群岛诸岛屿中最为繁多的。当然，来戏水闻啼鸟可别忘了带上鸡尾酒和点心。

　　午后1点30分，逛逛圣安妮海滩，你会惊喜地发现这儿有成车的由新鲜的木瓜和椰奶制成果冻等着你品尝，注意看卖果冻的老两口儿，老头儿沿着沙滩缓缓地推着车，老太太摇着铃铛售卖。看着向圣卢切方向前进，深入到D18区南部地区毗邻冯贝恩海滩的狭长海岸公路时，穿过那片静谧美妙的沙滩，你会觉得自己仿佛置身于科罗纳的商业广告大片中。将车停靠在烤鱼水吧，尝尝这儿地道的沙滩烤鱼，冰镇洛林啤酒和地道的麦芽酒。

　　享受完迟到的午餐后继续出发，下午4点30分停靠在海滩度假屋，短暂欣赏下加勒比海北部的渔村风光，和热火朝天的捕鱼场面。伟大的航海家哥伦布曾经停靠在这儿，大画家保罗-高更曾于1887年来这里呆了5个月，只为绘制这儿美轮美奂的风景。岛上北侧D62区的高更美术馆距这儿只有几分钟的车程，尽管里面存的只是那副绝世名画的复制品，但依然值得你到那儿一游。

　　换到马卢巴酒店住宿后，6点30分出门，别错过了看海滩日落的美好风景。傍晚当然不能不去本地大厨开的海滩饭馆和小有名气的费迪南德经营的露天夜店，夜店顶部独特的水雾系统能够确保宾客们用餐时不会中暑，他们还提供租金每天约10欧元的马车，那些穿着迪奥品牌比基尼身材超棒的法国贵妇小姐们都喜欢坐着它四处闲逛。傍晚退潮十分还不算冷，闲逛完先泡个澡再去吃龙虾喝点夏布利酒，夜店里的动感音乐也会陪伴您直到11点时分。

　　旅行第三日(周日)上午8时，我们今天的目的地是距海岸几英里外的圣皮埃尔港，在1902年5月8日前，这个城市一直是马提尼克的首府，直到海拔4600英尺的佩雷火山爆发，城市中约3万多的居民都在那起天灾中丧生。尽管如此，圣皮埃尔的景色依然美不胜收，令人流连忘返，临近佩雷火山高峰点的地方向下眺望，马提尼克岛，周边诸岛和大西洋沿海的壮丽风光尽收眼底。不过今天一定得先去摩恩卢日的杂货店逛一逛，备齐了奶酪，面包和水果后再登山，上佩雷火山的路非常陡峭，沿着路标走，会遇到不少登山的徒步旅行者。

　　9点钟开始你的徒步之旅，起初四分之三的路程就非常难走，差不多900多英尺的路途里更像是在爬而不是走，火山侧翼的路非常陡峭险峻。身边同样是来登山的法国夫妇和孩子们看到你疲惫的气喘吁吁的样子可能会取笑你，但别灰心，打起精神来，看到山峰的帽状云时，你离胜利可就不远了，站在山上眺望得来的美好精神，会将你满身心的疲惫一扫而空。要是年轻力壮的话，你还能更上一层楼再向上爬一段儿，当然得带够午餐别饿着肚子，并且在山顶上多拍些照片。

　　午后1点钟乘车约45分钟前往北部的加勒比海岸地区，顺一条羊肠小径穿过一片可可种植园的遗迹，就来到了克鲁维海湾的黑沙滩，这儿是那种能够让厌倦了喧嚣城市生活的城里人，放弃固有生活习惯，重拾自我之地。出了黑沙滩外，这一区的热带雨林，悬崖上垂下的野葡萄藤和不知名的野花，如此可爱又祥和的气质，同样也是安地利斯群岛中独一无二的。当然，好天气时，在这儿还能享受潜水，冲浪带来的乐趣，还能从停车场开雷诺跑车的嬉皮士们手中买到不常见的西番榴莲和多籽儿番木瓜。

　　4点时分驾车沿着狭长的贯穿全岛向南的那条坎菲尔德公路，经过大西洋海岸和弗朗索瓦之间狭长但风景奇美的地带，就来到了下一个目的地克莱门特酿酒厂，这儿是马提尼克岛最重要的陈年朗姆酒生产基地，你可不能错过品尝的机会。酿酒厂始建于1917年，当时主要是用来服务一战士兵和水手的，现在酿酒厂随时都备有用橡胶圆筒盛装的约32万加仑的朗姆酒。

　　5点时分入住东环礁度假村，这儿是岛上最豪华的酒店，在这里享受一下法式按摩和水疗，尽情放松洗去登山带来的疲乏后再前往贝伦餐厅用餐，这儿的烹饪将本地食材的精华和法国烹调手法完美融合在了一起。餐厅里还有味道别致的鸡尾酒，典型的法国味儿，价钱都差不多，喝一点儿有助你睡个好觉。

　　旅行第四日(周一)早8时，今儿去弗朗索瓦有很多节目慢慢欣赏，上午的半天时间专门用来钓金枪鱼，旗鱼和形状奇异的蓝枪鱼，然后乘着双排皮筏前往那片号称是拿破仑的首任妻子约瑟芬-博阿尔内沐浴过的白沙滩，在那儿享受顿迟来的晚餐和法式长面包然后一直呆到午后，显然是不错的创意。

　　12点前后驱车西行前往马提尼克目前的首府法兰西堡，随便找路边任何一家小型的克鲁尔人烧烤摊尝尝，看看那烤肉时烟熏火燎的场景，这儿的蜜汁鸡翅膀和猪排都是相当对味儿的午餐主菜，配合上旁边摊位的水果就更好了。从法兰西堡向北行车几分钟就到了占地7亩多景色优美的巴拉塔花园，环绕周身的花瓣和百余种的兰花科植物，芙蓉花和热带植物。

　　最后，下午3点左右，驱车返程回机场踏上归途吧，向为期4天的浪漫的马提尼克之旅说再见吧。   

　　Take Monday Off: Martinique

　　Martinique has the pristine beaches, wild jungle hiking and super-luxe nightlife that are a given in more exclusive parts of the Caribbean. But the island's 400 years of Gallic lineage give it a delicious twist: A trip here is both a French vacation and a tropical escape, justifying the two flight changes it can take to reach the island from the U.S. A volcano climb and scuba dive might be followed by a Guerlain wrap and Champagne cocktails, with a shot of 50-year-old rum on the side. The cuisine blends French technique, local ingredients and Creole spices, and the city architecture feels like New Orleans mated with the Mediterranean. The island's greatest beauty, however, may be its lack of all-inclusive artifice—Martinique has none of the walled-off resorts that keep travelers inured to local life. It's an island for exploring: well-signed, welcoming and packed with delights, as easy or involved as you want it to be。

　　Day One: Friday

　　11:15 p.m. Pick up car at Aimé Césaire International Airport. The Avis here (0596-42-11-00; avis-antilles.fr) has an Audi TT roadster, which you're going to want—Martinique's coastal and mountain roads are some of the twistiest of your life. Head south on the N5 to the Hotel Bakoua Martinique, about 35 minutes away (La Pointe du Bout, Les Trois Ilets, 0596-66-02-02). Sip a Ti' Punch—lemon, sugar and three fingers of white agricultural rum—on the beach before turning in. If you're not the early-to-bed type, stop in at L'Amphore , the trendy nightclub a couple of minutes west (La Pointe du Bout, Les Trois Ilets, 0596-66-03-09). Heed the dress code and leave your shorts and flip-flops in your room。

　　Day Two: Saturday

　　9:30 a.m. Meet kayak guide Roger Delafargue (0696-90-95-74; lagon-evasion.com) in the coconut grove on La Plage de L'Anse Michel, on the Atlantic coast near Sainte-Anne, and spend the morning paddling around shallow reefs and pale beaches (a few of them are naturist areas, if that's your thing) of La Baie des Anglais. The three islets to the east are part of a national ornithological reserve; there are more sea birds here, including puffins and frigatebirds, than anywhere else in the Lesser Antilles. Cocktails and snacks are included。

　　1:30 p.m. Stop by the beach in Sainte-Anne for a coupe of the incredible local sorbet, made with fresh papaya and coconut milk. Watch for the elderly couple who sell it, trundling down the sand, she ringing a bell, he pushing a wheelbarrow. Drive toward Sainte-Luce, dipping south when you get to the D18, the narrow coastal road that leads to L'Anse Fond Banane, a quiet little crescent beach so pretty it feels like a Corona commercial. Stop at Aqua Grill (0696-50-30-20)， a waterside shack, for grilled fish, ridiculously good fries and an icy bottle of Bière Lorraine, the local ale. That's St. Lucia's craggy outline on the horizon。

　　4:30 p.m. Pull into Le Carbet, a picturesque fishing village an hour north on the Caribbean coast. Columbus stopped here, and Paul Gauguin spent a formative five months painting around the town in 1887. Though it has only reproductions, the Musée Gauguin, a couple of minutes north on the D62, is worth a stop (Quartier Choisy, Le Carbet; 0596-78-22 66). Check in at the Hôtel Marouba (0596-78-00-21; hotel-marouba.net)。

　　6:30 p.m.Try to arrive at Le Petitbonum (Le Coin, Le Bord de Mer, Le Carbet; 0596-78-04-34; reservations recommended) before sunset. The beach restaurant and open-air nightclub, run by garrulous local chef and demi-celeb Guy Ferdinand, has an overhead water misting system to keep guests cool at their tables, and rents super-wide chaises longues for 10 euros per day (cocktail included). They're usually filled with well-toned, smoke-ringed French women in Dior bikini bottoms. It is quite possibly the most fabulous beach-front restaurant on the island. The shoreline is black sand, which retains heat well into the evening. Take a dip before settling into tempura-battered balaou—a local fish—with crayfish and Chablis. There's live music under the stars until 11.

　　Day Three: Sunday

　　8 a.m. Saint-Pierre, just a couple miles up the coast from Le Carbet, was the island's capital until May 8, 1902, when Mount Pelée, a 4,600-foot volcano that is the highest point on Martinique, erupted. The town's 30,000 inhabitants were killed in minutes. St. Pierre is lovely (palm-lined streets; yachts and brightly painted fish boats in the harbor) and haunting, but it is best viewed from near the volcano's summit. Stop at La Kay Alice (0696-38-81-55)， the little grocery store in Le Morne Rouge, for cheese (the processed emmenthal is strangely excellent)， bread and fruit before continuing your ascent. The road up the volcano's flank is steep beyond belief; follow the signs and you'll run into the hike-in lot。

　　9 a.m. Start hiking. (You'll need some decent shoes。) The first three-quarters of a mile is the toughest stretch by far, ascending nearly 900 feet, at times headed up so sharply that it's more climb than hike. French families with children in tow will almost certainly lap you. But buck up: If the summit's cloud cap parts when you're on the hairline ridge of Morne La Croix (elevation 4,120 feet)， the view will temporarily cancel out the pain of blisters. Plan on an hour each way unless you're in prime shape, plus lunch and pictures at the top。

　　1 p.m. Drive 45 minutes to the sclerotic northern terminus of the Caribbean coastal road. There, down a short footpath and past the ruins of a cocoa plantation, you'll find a black sand beach called Anse Coleuvre. It's the sort of place that makes city people consider giving it all up for the simple life. The rainforest and cliffs drip with Jurassic-looking vines and wildflowers, and the dominant ethos here appears to be French Antilles−style peace and love (watch for the "Jah is My Co-Pilot" bumper stickers on the way in). Now's the time to bust out the snorkeling gear. If you surf, barrels roll in fast from the north on good days. You can buy passion fruit and seedy papayas from the hippie in the parking lot who works from the trunk of his Renault。

　　4 p.m. The road that crosses the island and heads south through the canefields along the Atlantic coast to Le François is beautiful but long. By the time you arrive at l'Habitation Clement (Domaine de l'Acajou, Le François; 0596-54-62-07; habitation-clement.fr)， one of Martinique's most important producers of aged agricultural rum, you should be ready for a tot. The distillery was founded in 1917 to whet the whistles of WWI soldiers and sailors; the company has some 320,000 gallons aging in oak barrels at any one time。

　　5 p.m.Check into Cap Est Lagoon Resort and Spa (Le François; 0596-54-80-80; capest.com)， a couple of minutes away and easily the most luxurious hotel on the island. Unwind with a massage and body wrap in the Guerlain spa before dinner at Le Belém, an exquisite room that mashes high-French ideas and execution with local ingredients. (On the menu: chilled, vibrant leek soup with a molten fried shrimp; a voluptuous foie gras trio that layers passion fruit and Szechuan pepper with creamy duck liver。) The cocktails are brilliant, and the wine list veers deep into the best parts of France, with corresponding prices. Be glad you're sleeping over。

　　Day Four: Monday

　　8 a.m.There's plenty to do out of Le François, from half-day fishing charters for tuna, sailfish and monster blue marlin to kite surfing and catamaran tours to the white sand shoals where Martiniquan Joséphine de Beauharnais, the first wife of Napoléon Bonaparte, is said (with scant evidence) to have bathed. A better idea might be to have a long, late breakfast and loaf on the beach until noon。

　　12 p.m.Drive west to Fort-de-France, stopping at one of the little Creole barbecue operations that pepper the roadsides. You'll see them at roundabouts—watch for plumes of smoke. The sweet-sauced chicken legs and pork ribs make for a great lunch, particularly if you can pair the meat with another roadside vendor's ripe local fruit. At Fort-de-France, drive a few minutes north to the Balata Garden, set on seven ultra-lush acres (km 10, route de Balata; 0596-64-48-73; jardindebalata.fr)， is a petal-head's dream, with hundreds of varieties of orchid, hibiscus and other tropical plants from across the globe, plus a system of catwalks suspended more than 45 feet up in mahogany trees。

　　3 p.m. Return car and stock up on booze at the excellent airport rum shop. Head home。